The fashion industry is grappling with a significant waste issue, discarding an equivalent of a garbage truck full of textiles every second. This sector also contributes more carbon emissions than global maritime shipping and international flight combined. In response, various companies are exploring innovative recycling techniques and creating new materials that eliminate reliance on fossil fuels.
One such startup, Rubi, focuses on revolutionary methods to produce lyocell and viscose fibres. Co-founder and CEO Neeka Mashouf explained to TechCrunch that their approach effectively utilises the machinery of biology outside of a cell, enabling companies to create products using captured carbon dioxide. Rubi has successfully secured $7.5 million in funding to develop its cellulosic production system, aimed at producing significant volumes of material primarily from CO₂. Notably, this funding round included investors such as AP Ventures, FH One Investments, H&M Group, and others.
Rubi has initiated over $60 million in non-binding contracts with several partners and has conducted material tests with 15 pilot partners, including well-known brands like H&M, Patagonia, and Walmart. In their process, Rubi employs enzymes to produce the required cellulose, diverging from other methods which often utilise engineered bacteria or chemical catalysts. The traditional cellulose supply chain primarily relies on tree sources, including virgin forests, which has raised sustainability concerns.
Mashouf highlighted the lengthy supply chains involved in textile production and pointed to an increasing demand in the U.S. for textile-grade cellulose pulp, a product that is currently lacking. The concept of using enzymes was conceived during Mashouf’s collaboration with her twin sister, a medical student at Harvard; they consistently circled back to this technology while assessing existing solutions.
The enzyme industry is already substantial, playing roles in various sectors, including food production and wastewater treatment, with low production costs. Rubi utilises a “cascade” of enzymes to efficiently convert waste carbon dioxide into cellulose, incorporating AI and machine learning to enhance enzyme performance.
The operational mechanics involve enzymes suspended in an aqueous solution where carbon dioxide is infused, resulting in the generation of white cellulose within minutes. Rubi’s reactors are compact, sized similarly to shipping containers, and the company plans to evolve towards continuous production in the future.
Initially targeting apparel companies, Rubi aims to expand its cellulose offerings to other industries that require these materials. Mashouf envisions this endeavour as a foundational platform capable of generating essential chemicals and materials across the economy in a cost-effective manner.
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