Jen Keane is renowned for creating a shoe using bacteria, encouraging the microbes to form nanocellulosic materials shaped like a sneaker. However, she feels that chapter is behind her.
“I think that narrative somewhat overlooks the bigger picture,” she shared with TechCrunch. “The fibers generated by bacteria—this isn’t groundbreaking.”
While her new venture certainly utilizes those same fibers, it adopts a more contemporary approach akin to traditional fabric production.
Her company, Modern Synthesis, employs bacteria to cultivate nanocellulose fibers but then processes them for diverse applications. This fresh strategy resembles turning cotton into denim for jeans, whereas her earlier sneaker project was akin to convincing a cotton plant to form its fibers into pants—innovative, but not particularly scalable.
The fibers developed by Modern Synthesis offer manipulation capabilities that simple plant fibers lack. According to Keane, the CEO of Modern Synthesis, these fibers can be shaped into a thin, wind-resistant film or textured to imitate premium leather. Thus, they bear more resemblance to synthetic materials such as polyester and polyurethane.
What sets Modern Synthesis apart is that its nanocellulose products are entirely biodegradable.
“You want your materials to endure for a lifetime or perhaps two, around 100 years. You don’t want them lingering for thousands of years like most synthetic materials do,” Keane explained.
Since cellulose is the foundational element of the startup’s textiles, what remains after decomposition is akin to what you’d find on a forest floor. “It should act similarly to other cellulosic substances,” she noted. “Cotton serves as a prime example.”
One of the key advances that inspired Keane to establish Modern Synthesis alongside Ben Reeve, the company’s CTO, was the capacity to develop materials solely from nanocellulose. Other bio-based materials may imitate leather, but they often require the addition of synthetic elements to achieve that effect, she mentioned.
Modern Synthesis acquires its nanocellulose from existing manufacturers that produce it in significant volumes for various uses, including food additives and medical implants. The startup then refines the nanocellulose to develop distinct materials. In 2023, for example, it produced an artificial leather for Danish fashion label Ganni, which was incorporated into a handbag free from petrochemicals.
Keane mentioned that the company is aiming to increase production at its pilot facility by fivefold. Modern Synthesis has recently secured $5.5 million in funding, which it disclosed exclusively to TechCrunch. The investment round was spearheaded by Extantia Capital, with other contributions from Artesian and Collaborative Fund.
While sneakers, apparel, and handbags are promising avenues for Modern Synthesis’s materials, Keane is also considering more futuristic applications such as smart textiles with integrated electronics, alongside more conventional uses like car dashboards.
“Cellulosic materials don’t melt like synthetics,” she pointed out. “Think about car dashboards and how they start to warp in the heat if you leave them in the sun too long. Our materials will not do that.”
Compiled by Techarena.au.
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